This friendly chap is hanging out of the sewer and greeting passersby.
Walk around the Hlavné námestie (main square) of Bratislava, and you’ll come across a friendly face poking out of the sewers. The Čumil Statue, also known as Čumil the Sewage Worker or Man at Work, has been greeting visitors and locals alike since 1997.
Čumil the Sewage Worker and Schöner Náci are two of my favorite things to see in Bratislava. They’re both charming statues that have become beloved elements of Slovakia’s capital.
The history of the Čumil Statue
Sculptor and artist Viktor Hulík designed Čumil the Sewage Worker, which was installed on July 26, 1997. The unveiling happened during the Korzo Party, which was a celebration of an upgraded pedestrian area in the main square. A whopping 30,000 people came to celebrate this event. I can barely get a dozen friends together with several weeks of notice. Color me impressed.
The Korzo Party also debuted the Napoleonic Soldier and Schöner Náci. Three majestic works of art all at once! It was a big day for bronze sculptures.
Čumil (pronounced “choo-mill”) is sometimes referred to as a soldier, but that is an incorrect designation. Visit Bratislava contends that the Čumil Statue “commemorates a leader of the resistance against the Soviet occupation in 1968.”
There’s also the theory that Čumil is reflective of Hulík’s own experiences of hanging out in the promenade as a young child and trying to, uh…peek up miniskirts of women walking through the main square.
I like to think Čumil is a bit more wholesome than that (he’s looking straight ahead and not up, which is good) and is just a hard-working dude taking a break from plunging the sewers and hanging out with the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.
How to see the Čumil Statue
Head to the corner of Rybná brána and Panská Street and you’ll see Čumil peeking out from the ground. He’s right outside of Amor Slovakia (Panská 1, 811 01 Bratislava, Slovakia), so if you see a big “Jewellry” storefront, you’re walking the right way.
The statue is literally leaning over the curb, and many people have tripped over him (or driven over him while riding a bike or motorcycle). The Bratislava government installed a “man at work” sign right next to him, and that’s another good landmark to look for.
It’s very simple to walk to Schöner Náci from the Čumil statue (or vice-versa). The Napoleonic statue is also pretty cool, leaning all over a bench like that. You can easily check out all three sights within an hour.
Where to stay in Bratislava
Among European castles, Bratislava Castle is not the most prestigious or stunning. Still, it’s quite cool to look up and see an enormous palace and facade, and the grounds are nice to walk around. Plus, they’re a great spot for photos. The Apartman Old Centre – Rybarska Brana is less than half a mile away from the castle in the heart of the Old Town. It’s a fantastic apartment with some excellent luxuries, such as a balcony, washing machine, and an elegant kitchen and dining area. You can comfortably fit four people here, and even a group of five or six would do well.
If you’d rather go the designer hotel route in the main square, it’s hard to beat the 5-star Marrol’s Boutique Hotel. You’re less than a five-minute walk away from the Čumil statue and other sights like the Old Town Hall and Michael’s Gate. The latter has one of the best views in Bratislava, so save some time to climb up.
Whether you’re visiting Bratislava in the spring or heading there as part of your European Christmas market tour, the Čumil statue is a worthy addition to your sightseeing. Happy scavenging!
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